Nadine Williams

A sunburnt country via the Ghan

We weave our way down three carriages to the bar car, with its padded seating and glossy gold ceiling, for aperitifs. Everyone sparkles and we trot out our best conversation with fellow passengers – gold and platinum guests from America, Canada, England Scotland and Wales, as well as Australians.  Many ladies have dressed up for dinner adorned with glittering bijoux  and men wear RM Williams or Ralph Lauren.

Silver-service dining is  a delightful three-course affair and from the four choices for main course.  I choose “High Country Pork  Cutlet served with Pomme Rosti, Apple Churney and a Red Wine and Rosemary Jus”  which lives up to its posh description

We return to find our cabin chairs made into beds with gifts of chocolates and Lisa our  friendly stewardess brings us nightcaps – Cognac for monsieur, Baileys for moi.  

At dawn a rainbow arches across the overcast sky and I simply gaze in wonderment.  I had been lulled to sleep by the creaking and groaning rhythm of the train, which rocketed along during the night.   It’s 6:40 am and we are at Marla cruising by a forest of grey, green trees when bright-eyed Lisa arrives with tea. I begin Day 2, showered and fresh.

By breakfast at 8.30am, the trees are tortured specimens, struggling for life.  Stunted blue bush is strewn like pompoms across rolling sandhills and flat sand pans.. A snaky line of low greenery  marks an occasional dry creek bed.   By mid morning,  we are passing kilometres of dead trees, blackened, bent desert battlers who have given up the ghost. Now there is nothing but the stark, barren, red earth.

I call the desert  “bald country’’ and its the Australia I wanted to see: the heart of our island continent.

“How would you describe that?’’ I ask monsieur. “Desolation,’’ he replies.

It could be boring without a book and he gripes about the lack of television to break monotony.

The entry to Alice Springs through the East and West MacDougall Ranges heralds a much-awaited stop.  We bus to Alice Springs Desert Park, despite the oppressive century heat and our Aboriginal guide unveils the wonders of desert ecology.  On our return, we see a rare site – a pond of water in that riverbed of sand, the Todd River. Lisa greets us with iced tea and cool face towels.   

Tonight, we join Australia’s famous Viola virtuoso, Lawrence Jacks and his wife Vicky for classy restaurant fare. Conversation is about music, newspapers, culture and country – and to monsieur’s delight, our waiter delivers the  Coriole Sauvignon Blanc on time with the spicy Lentil Soup.

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