KI pelicans perform sky show

Who would expect one of the most spectacular wildlife experiences on Kangaroo Island to happen while sipping early-morning tea at an unlikely place – on the veranda of American River’s general store.

Amazingly, straight ahead of us four magnificent pelicans glide into view, circling and swooping over the sparkling blue waters of Eastern Cove. They are like kites as they put on a wonderful air show, but then they seem to fall into line in a row overhead to do what could only be described as a fly-past, in perfect formation as if to say “Good morning’’. Or perhaps it is to let us know what we might have missed for not being patient when we had strolled along Scenic Walk on our way to the store. The birds had been clustered there in the shallow waters on the foreshore patiently waiting to be fed by staff from All Seasons Kangaroo Island Lodge. A few families of guests were gathered for the feeding time scheduled for 9am each morning. We had stopped for a few minutes, scooping up our small Maltese dog, Jackson, until five minutes after 9am before strolling on our way when no-one arrived to feed them.

We gaze over the waters uplifted by the spectacle when my husband spies another quiet formation of about seven elegant black swans paddling one behind the other in the direction of Sapphiretown. It is an amazing sight. Locals are divided on which is the signature bird of American River. The township is dotted with waterside art of pelicans, which have inhabited the Pelican Lagoon Conservation Park for eons, but the black swans live in the Aquatic Reserve.

Matthew Flinders named Pelican Lagoon when he first saw the large hidden lagoon from Prospect Hill on April 4, 1802. He noted in his log that day: “Alas for the Pelicans: Flocks of old birds were sitting on the beaches of the lagoon. It appeared that the islets were their breeding places. Not only so, but from the number of skeletons there scattered it should seem that they had for ages been selected for the closing scene of their existence. Certainly none more likely to be free from the disturbances of every kind could have been chosen than these islets in a hidden lagoon in an uninhabited island, situated upon unknown coast near the antipodes of Europe. But their golden age is past… Matthew Flinders.

This tidbit of history makes American River’s pelicans even more special. One such bird – Bump Pelican – is something of a celebrity with her own facebook since she was hit by a car sustaining a crooked beak. Since, she has become a femme fatale for the gathered crowds outside All Seasons, but with all the fluffing of wings and beak battering that goes on at feeding time, it is hard to distinguish her, unless you notice the feeding fellow thrust his fist down her beak.

Kangaroo Island is renowned worldwide for its wonderful wildlife, but American River without a swimming beach and a few kilometres off the beaten track to Kingscote, Seal Bay and Flinders Chase National Park, tends to be overlooked by tourists. The township offers stunning views over Eastern Cove, a glorious horseshoe-shaped bay bordered with white, sandy beaches from prestigious island Beach to pristine Baudin Beach. There is prolific birdlife, particularly the endangered Glossy Black Cockatoos, who share Sheoak scrub habitat with countless wallabies. Yachts and fishing craft dot the peaceful waters, which offer a new boat ramp and oysters are for sale at the wharf. Or as the French explorer, Nicolas Baudin, who circumnavigated Kangaroo Island in 1803 would say – Magnifique!

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