Nadine Williams

Mourning Glory

That last taboo – Death – has become a springboard for Leonor Scherrer, daughter of French couturier Jean-Louis to launch her own “funeral couture’’.

In France one can no longer consider turning up to a funeral draped in drab black… one must be chic, especially if one is the daughter of one of France’s elite fashion designers.

Leonor Scherrer was so stressed at not finding anything appropriate enough for Yves Saint Laurent’s funeral, she decided not to go.

However, in the hunting process, she realised that there was a niche market for stylish funeral fashion – a line of “funeral couture’’ mourning clothes designed in collaboration with one of the greatest of France’s creators, Ricardo Tisci.

And what better medium to display her black fashion thoughts than Vogue Paris magazine. Ricardo Tisci, of whom she is muse, has designed the first line, lavish garments with sensual overtones – backless, strapless, short leather skirts, cropped matching jackets and power-padded shoulder lines.

Nothing is sacred in their death fashion tool kit. Leonor believes death is not an end, but a passage and that one should accept this concept and honor the deceased’s parting with elegant and stylish dressing.  Touches of sensual finery, such as feathers, black French lace, and zips give scope for fashion statements in the midst of sadness.

Her total concept will extend to the whole organisation of a burial – the coffin, the tomb,  flowers, music, ceremony and wake.

“Every burial must be unique, not as it is at present – industrial and dehumanised,’’ she says. “What interests me is not the darkness (of the occasion), but light.’’

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